Knowing in which tool to select for any particular dent can be quite tricky, particularly when we're just starting off learning PDR. In this video I'm taking a look very standard everyday door dent. But I'm gonna run you through my tool selection and why I choose the tool I do.

Now, I've got a few different tools in mind so I've got a choice. I've got this flat, curved bar which is great for getting into this kind of window gap, pushing it back and really getting you to that body line. And it's got a really fine but curved tip that's great for pushing out the line without kind of causing too much high spot. But just here the handles, catching the top of the door for what would be my ideal position. So whilst I can reach the dent with that tool, the angle I want to use it at is not quite enough to get me onto the dent for a nice, clean finish.

So now, using the shorter version of my hockey still hockey stick style bar. Now this has been the shorter version, kind of. It's quite easy in my arms in this position so you can see I'm kneeling down. I can get the blade tip of that tool right behind the dent, and I've still got enough height between the kind of top of the door frame and a handle to allow me nice free movement on it.

Now, quite often when I'm doing body lines, if I can get my Double Bend Bar in, that's gonna be a really good option. As I said before, this bar is super strong, so I know I can get plenty of leverage and really push the body line out If the body line becomes too tight.

Now I can get in at this angle and I can get directly behind the dents and with both hands I can give it a whole load of force to really push that body alone. So that's definitely an option. Nice and strong straight to it.

Now, this is my kind of ratchet the door handle. It's more of a flag blade, but it's got a screw on the tip on the end. Now, this has got a really nice long handle, so I can get plenty of leverage and it's a soft grip as well. So it's just comfy to use. 

Now I can get on this dent, but look at the length of it. So I can only really get on it if I've got my left arm in an uncomfortable position at the very top. And that means I'm not gonna be able to get optimum force, or I'm going to be straining myself.

Now so far, I'm favoring the shorter hockey stick star tool gives me really nice, comfortable working position. I've got plenty of force, plenty of leverage.

Now I'm going to apply a little bit of tape to the end, so the dent is fairly soft. I don't want to go kind of too harsh and work straight metal to metal, so I've probably wrap that round about two or three times just to soften the edge of the blade tip. So now, as we start the repair, you can just see me kind of feeling around on the inside, just trying to check my positioning and get my tool tip to the dent.

So now, as we start the repair, you can just see me kind of feeling around on the inside, just trying to check my positioning and get my tool tip to the dent. Now I'm pretty much aiming for the body line here. I'm just starting to see how well that body line moves. There is the option to go straight for the body line, give it a really good push, and that will draw in a lot of the lows. But that does also run the risk of creating a high spot on the body line itself. That can be a bit tricky later, because it's dent, quite soft. I'm gonna work around the body line and finish on the body line itself.

So right now I'm giving it a few pushes below. You can just see in those lines pinch together just at the bottom part of the dent and now working my way up towards the top side and again, you can watch those lines pension together as I'm getting my tip into the ideal position.

I'm kind of working around the low itself and not hitting the body line just yet, just making a dent a little bit shorter. So I'm bringing the low up and I'm working either side of the body line, working the metal in towards the line itself. Now I can do that because the dent is not too sharp. It's not too creased on the body line.

Now I've got my tool kind of in a good position in that low, just literally above the body line. I'm applying a little bit more pressure, holding it a little bit longer, and you can really see that metal start to sit in the place now.

So just continue that process, closing a bouncing technique until I know my tool tip is in the right position. And when I know it is just applying a little bit more pressure, pushing it just far enough that when I released the pressure, the metal has lifted and stayed in position as opposed to popping back into where it was when I started. Now that the dents that bit smaller, I can really focus around the body line.

Now that the dents that bit smaller, I can really focus around the body line. I can just see I create a slight high there so just below the body line I didn't have my tip quite on the body line itself it was just below. I've actually created a slight high. Now because I've got the tape on the tool it is only very slight, and I can correct that with a little tap down. But had I have done that same push on the body line, it would have brought up the low just above the higher created. So I was just very slightly out and created a high spot just below the dent.

Now I've decided just to continue pushing, continue pushing the low on the body line, and then I'll come back and correct that high. Just a couple of taps with the little roof tap down, tap down the little high spot. Now we can see I've just got probably about a millimeter or so of a low spot on the body line itself. 

And at this point, I'm just moving my head back and forth a little bit and just in, if I can see any kind of tension, anything that needs to be addressed while I've got my tap down and hammer to hand. Now moving my tool tip back towards that remaining low. Again, bouncing it till I know I'm on the line. And once I can see I'm in that low again just upon a little bit more pressure, pushing that metal up back in that body line.

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