Today, I'm going to be removing a crease dent from the rear side panel of a VW Golf.
I'm going to repair 90% of the damage with a KECO glue pulling crease tab and robo lifter combination and then finish off the repair from the inside with a hook tool.
There's going to be a fair amount of knock down work as well so I'll go through the stages with you.
Assessing The Damage
The rear quarter panels on most vehicles are fairly boxed in as opposed to a front wing where it's single skinned and you can touch the rears often . The backs have the plastic or felt shield under and they're an internal kind of metal part of the structure. Dents on the rear wheel arches are usually a lot tougher to do just from a lack of access.
I'm going to potentially glue pull the dent. I've got the crease tabs and the KECO Glue Pulling Robo Lifter which we've seen in a lot of the videos is a good go-to when there's no access. But whenever I'm doing quarter panels, regardless where the dent is, I always have a look at access points as well.
You could remove the lamp and see what access there is for this way but, on the VW Golf, you have a kind of felt material undershield so just push that to one side. Inside, there’s a huge hole. It did have a rubber grommet in it which I've just taken out but that's going to be an access point for this repair.
Setting Up For The Glue Pulling Process
I’ve already got my glue gun warming up and I'll start with the process.
Also, I've cleaned off my panel and warmed it up and that really helps the tab adhere to the panel with the glue.
I'm using the KECO Glue Pulling crease tab and the KECO Glue Pulling Robo lifter. I turn the rubber feet inwards to give me a narrower gap and help focus that pulling energy onto the crease tab itself.
With a few good pulls, good adhesion and good setup, I'm now starting to move the metal.
After that, I'm going to repeat the process but this time with a smaller glue tab. As I apply the glue to this crease tab, note the smoke that comes off the glue. That's really indicating that I've got the glue gun that is really nice and hot. Also, that makes a huge difference in how well I can pull.
As you know, I'm not scared of bringing the panel high so I'm going to try and bring out this crease. After that, I’m going to tap down the high. You can just see in the reflections where I am with my low and either glue pull it once again or get a bar behind and just finish that off from the inside.
With the Elimadent light and my line board set up, you can really see the reflected lines as they begin to pinch together. This indicates a high spot that I just created during that last pull. Moving on, I'm going to start by tapping down at the high line. I'm looking to tap down all of the high area where those lines pinch together.
Knocking Down Process
As you can see, I've got a slight low spot in the middle so I'm looking to only tap around the areas that are high until my reflection reads true. That should leave me with just a very small low right in the middle. As the video is sped up, you can really see how that metal starts to move. So, with no pushing, yet we've made fairly good progress with the dent.
Assessing Access Using The Hook Bar
Out of curiosity, I checked the access using the hook bar. And yes, I can get straight on that. I can get through the hole, and use the little leverage to push to the dent.
Finishing The Repair
Just getting them finished enough, I thought I was done but this is the importance of checking our work. I'm now going to finish this dent with tools from the inside, but if there was no access, it is possible to remove this dent 100% with just the glue pulling process alone.
I’d basically repeat the initial setup of using a small crease tab, placing it directly onto the low small crease and then using my lifter to pull up the metal.
I can then tap down any of the highs that are created during the glue pulling process. For me personally, if I can get a tool behind it, I just find that a little bit quicker to get a nice clean finish.